CHRISTMAS CHEER

In the heart of Portugal’s Douro Valley lie the vineyards that produce one of Britain’s favourite drinks. 

Portuguese wines became popular in Britain in the early seventeen hundreds when hostile Anglo-French relations, triggered by the war of Spanish succession, cut off supplies of claret. Although there was nothing from Portugal which remotely resembled red Bordeaux, by throwing in a bucket or two of brandy to condition the wine for its long sea voyage to Britain, the foundation was laid for an entirely new category of great liquor - fortified wine. 

The manufacture of port begins in the heat of September when the grapes from the vineyards of the Douro Valley, some 60 miles upriver from Oporto, are harvested. The crushed grapes - still trodden with bare feet at some vineyards - are allowed to ferment in the heat for a few days, then brandy is added: one part to 4 1/2 parts of grape juice. This stops the fermentation before all the sugars in the grapes have turned to alcohol; the resultant fortified wine is both sweet and alcoholic. 

The young wine spends its first winter stored near the vineyard before being shipped in the spring to Vila Nova de Gaia, on the banks of the Douro opposite Oporto. This town, where blending has been done for 300 years, is more commonly known simply as Gaia and has become the centre of the world’s port trade. It is here that high skills produce wines from different grape varieties, vineyards and vintages to suit the tastes and qualities expected by consumers. 

Tawny port is made from blended fine wine; aged in barrels, it develops a nutty flavour and has a paler colour than ruby. Finest reserve is aged for seven years and has an aroma of dried fruit and walnuts. Enjoy it chilled now and at Christmas, as an aperitif or with dessert. Ten year-old tawny is paler still, with a nutty flavour, retaining an appealing freshness. 

Ruby port forms the basis for all others; it has a bright colour and ripe fruit flavours. It is best served at room temperature and is delicious with nuts and savoury nibbles, or with cheese and dried fruits after dinner. Late-bottled vintage port has a richness and peppery finish gained from maturing in seasoned wood for six years. 

CHRISTMAS LUNCH

- SPANISH STYLE

BY JOHN ALDRED

A Spanish Christmas lunch can be quite a surprise to the uninitiated. True that all the top restaurants and hotels put on roast turkey with all the trimmings and charge accordingly, but since the temperature in Southern Spain on December 25th is usually around 210 C most Spanish families prefer to wander down to their favourite Venta or Beach Restaurant.

Such a place is called Venta El Tintero (‘The Inkwell’), situated by the beach on the outskirts of Malaga, where literally hundreds of Malageunans can sit down to eat at the same time. There is seating for 500 people outside on the terrace under the shade of slatted bamboo, and a further 250 inside. Opening hours are from midday until the last customer leaves, which can be very late, and the place is always packed at Christmas, Fiestas and weekends. Tables are laid for either 6 or 8 persons but you can join them together, and the trick is to get there early.

Eating at El Tintero is a completely different experience. Unlike a conventional restaurant there is no menu, so you cannot order in the usual way. At least a dozen waiters keep circulating inside and out carrying as many plates as they can, all shouting out their wares. “Ensalada Tropicana Aqui” (Tropical Salad here), “Tengo Boquerones Frito” (I have Fried Anchovies), “Coju su Gambas a la Plancha” (Get your Grilled Shrimps), “Tengo Alitas de Polio” (I have Chicken Wings).

You summon any waiter who is carrying what you fancy, and make up your meal as you go along by sharing all the dishes. Food preparation is carried out in an enormous kitchen, although one chef remains outside cooking chicken and fish on a huge barbecue grill, with king sized sardines sizzling away in front of a wood fire. To drink there is house wine, beer or soft drinks.

When all your party has had enough, which usually takes a couple of hours, you signal to El Cajero (the circulating cashier) who adds up the number of empty plates and bottles and writes down the amount owing on the paper table cloth. It usually comes to around 2000 pesetas per person, so is good value. We love to take visitors to El Tintero and they thoroughly enjoy all the mayhem. With all the waiters shouting at once, the customers talking loudly all around you, and a group of guitar playing singers trying to make themselves heard, it is splendidly chaotic!